Honda cooling and AC parts held in the UAE

This is a focused range rather than a full catalogue. It covers the parts that most often leave a Honda stranded or sweating in summer, and the table below explains what each one does and how it tends to announce a fault. For anything that is not listed, such as an expansion tank, a heater hose or an evaporator, send the chassis number and we check the part on request rather than offer something that only nearly fits.

At motorway speed, air rams through the grille and cools the radiator and the AC condenser on its own. In a queue on a summer afternoon there is no ram air at all. Everything then depends on the electric fans, and the AC adds heat of its own, because the condenser sits in front of the radiator and warms the air before it reaches the engine's core.

Many cars have a separate fan for the AC condenser beside the main radiator fan, each with its own motor, and Honda sells the radiator fan motor and the condenser fan motor as separate parts. If the temperature gauge climbs only when you are stationary with the AC on, and drops again once you move, suspect airflow before anything else: a fan that has stopped, a fan relay that has failed, or a radiator and condenser packed with sand and insects. If the AC turns warm at traffic lights but cold on the open road, the condenser fan is the first suspect. A fan relay counts as an electrical part, and we check it by chassis number like any other.

Have the front of the radiator stack cleaned when the car is serviced. Fine desert dust and a summer of debris can block enough of the condenser fins to cut cooling noticeably, and a gentle rinse costs almost nothing compared with the parts it protects.

On an automatic car the radiator usually does a second job: a small cooler inside one of its tanks takes heat out of the gearbox fluid, with two pipes running to it from the transmission. That is why the part makers list radiators by gearbox, as with the Accord radiators on our shelf that are marked for the automatic, and why we ask which gearbox your car has. A manual-gearbox radiator fitted to an automatic leaves the gearbox cooler pipes with nowhere to connect.

Most modern radiators have an aluminium core with plastic end tanks. Years of heat cycles make the plastic brittle, and the seam where tank meets core is where leaks often start. A crack there means a new radiator; sealing products from a petrol station rarely last and can block the narrow tubes of the core.

A thermostat is made to open at a set temperature, usually stamped on the part. Fit one with the same opening temperature as the original and renew its seal at the same time. A thermostat stuck shut overheats the engine within minutes of driving; one stuck open keeps the engine running cool, which wastes fuel and can set a fault code.

The radiator cap is one of the least expensive parts in the system and one of the most often forgotten. Its spring holds the coolant under pressure, which raises the temperature at which it boils. A weak cap lets coolant escape into the overflow bottle and out of the system, so a Honda that loses coolant with no visible leak deserves a new cap before anything more expensive. Never open it on a hot engine.

The AC condenser sits at the very front of the car, in the path of sand, stones and insects, and its thin fins and tubes take the knocks. A stone that punctures a tube lets the refrigerant out over a few days, and no amount of regassing fixes that. A garage finds the leak with dye or a pressure test before the condenser is replaced.

The compressor is usually the most expensive part of the AC and should be the last one condemned. A growl or rattle from the front of the engine with the AC switched off often comes from the bearing that the compressor's clutch pulley runs on, not from the compressor itself. For some Hondas that bearing is on the shelf on its own, which is a much smaller job than a new compressor.

When a compressor does fail inside, it sheds metal into the system. Fitting a new one without flushing the lines, renewing the receiver drier and using the correct oil is how a replacement fails again within months. Every joint opened during the work should get a new O-ring of the right size, and the shelf carries Honda AC seal sets for that reason.

Before buying any AC part, check which refrigerant your Honda uses: a label under the bonnet states the gas and the charge weight. The compressor and its oil must match it.

The stock tables show which brands we hold for each part. Where we hold genuine Honda and aftermarket lines of the same part, as with thermostats and water pumps, ask for both prices on the same chat, because the gap can be wide. A thermostat is a simple part, and a good aftermarket one with the correct opening temperature does the job. A water pump is a different decision: on an engine where the pump sits behind the timing belt, the labour to reach it can cost more than the pump, and some owners prefer the genuine part for that reason.

Where only an aftermarket brand appears for a part, as with the radiators, condensers and compressors at the time of the stock check, ask and we price the genuine Honda part separately so you can compare.

The chassis number from your mulkiya settles fitment. One model name can hide different engines, gearboxes and AC systems; in its seventh and eighth generations, for example, the Accord was built as different cars for North America and for Japan and Europe. GCC-spec Hondas and US imports share the roads here, so tell us the engine size and whether the car is automatic as well.

Your own garage fits the parts; we supply and deliver them. After cooling work the system should be refilled with the coolant type named in your owner's manual and bled of air, and after AC work it should be evacuated and recharged to the weight on the under-bonnet label.