Honda brake parts in UAE stock

The disc brakes on everyday cars such as the Civic and the CR-V generally use a sliding caliper: the caliper body moves on two greased pins so that the pads squeeze the disc evenly from both sides. When one pin sticks, one pad does most of the work. You see it as a pad worn to its backing plate while its partner still looks fresh, a car that pulls to one side under braking, or one wheel that is noticeably hotter than the others after a drive.

That is why the shelf behind this page carries caliper hardware as well as pads: slide pins, slide pin bushes, anti-rattle springs and the clips the pads sit in. They are small, inexpensive parts, and fitting new ones at a pad change is what lets the new pads wear evenly. A garage that cleans and regreases the slides every time the pads come out heads off most of the uneven wear we hear about.

Heat and sand both work against the slides. Grease baked through a summer turns stiff, and a split pin boot lets fine dust in. Squeal is the other common complaint. The anti-rattle springs and pad clips hold the pads still in the caliper; when they are worn, bent or left out, the pads buzz or squeal at light pedal pressure, and a new set of pads on its own will not cure it.

Not every Honda has the same brakes at the back. Some versions stop with drums at the rear, and the part makers behind our stock list rear brake shoe kits for versions of the City, the Jazz and the Civic among others. Others have discs all round; Honda's press material for the 2012 CR-V, for example, lists ventilated front discs and solid rear discs. Many cars with rear discs also hide a small drum inside the centre of the disc for the handbrake, with its own pair of shoes. Look through the rear wheel or send us the chassis number, and we will tell you which arrangement your car has before you order pads or shoes.

Newer Hondas add another step. According to Honda's press material, the 2017 CR-V has an electric parking brake applied by a switch on the centre console, together with an automatic Brake Hold that keeps the car stopped at traffic lights without the driver's foot on the pedal. On most cars with the parking brake built into the rear calipers, a garage first puts the system into service mode with a diagnostic tool, and only then can it push the pistons back for new pads. If your Honda has a parking brake switch rather than a lever or a pedal, mention it when you book the job.

Drum brakes have their own small parts. A shoe fitting kit carries the return springs and hold-down pins that keep the shoes in place and pull them back when you lift off the pedal. On a car whose shoes are worn out, those springs have often lost tension too, and fitting a new kit with new shoes keeps the handbrake and the self-adjuster working as they should.

City driving in the UAE is stop and start: queues on the main roads, signals every few hundred metres and speed bumps in every residential street. A Civic or an Accord in that traffic brakes far more often per kilometre than one cruising an open highway, and the front pads and discs do most of that work.

Long descents are the other test. Coming down Jebel Jais or Jebel Hafeet with a full car, a light foot resting on the pedal for minutes at a time heats the discs and pads more than any city drive. Select a lower gear and let the engine hold the car, so the brakes are still cool enough to bite at the bottom. Pads that have been overheated can glaze, which shows as a hard, shiny face and a pedal that needs more push for the same stop.

The heavier Hondas feel this most. An Odyssey or a Pilot with every seat taken asks more of its brakes on every stop than a City with one driver, so have its pads checked more often through the summer, and do not leave a judder or a squeal until the next service.

For pads, we hold genuine Honda and aftermarket lines side by side, so you can choose either on the same chat. A genuine pad gives the feel, noise level and dust the car was set up with. An aftermarket pad from one of the brands listed in the stock table usually costs less; ask us which pads fit your car and we quote both.

For caliper hardware the decision is simpler. Slide pins, pin bushes, anti-rattle springs and clips are plain metal and rubber parts, and FEBEST, a brand whose catalogue centres on rubber-to-metal and chassis parts, makes many of them for Honda. They are a small share of the cost of a brake job and worth fitting at every pad change.

Discs are about heat and fit. Replace them in axle pairs and with new pads, and match the original exactly: vented or solid, the right diameter and the right thickness. Most of the discs we hold are aftermarket, and where the tables show no genuine line for the part you need, we can still price the genuine Honda part on request.

Hoses and wheel cylinders are hydraulic safety parts. If one is leaking, the car should not be driven until it is repaired. Send the chassis number and we check the genuine Honda part while your garage confirms exactly which one has failed.

The chassis number from your mulkiya comes first. Brake parts under the same Honda name change with the generation, the engine and the market the car was built for. GCC-spec cars share the roads here with US imports, and in its seventh and eighth generations the Accord was built as different cars for North America and for Japan and Europe. Pads and discs that look identical in a photo can differ by a few millimetres.

Then tell us front or rear, whether the rear is a disc or a drum, and whether the parking brake is a lever, a pedal or a switch. If you still have the old pads, a photo of the backing plate helps, because many carry a part or batch number. Pads and discs are always replaced as an axle set, both wheels together, so ask for the pair.