Mitsubishi electrical parts, held in the UAE

Most Mitsubishi electrical faults arrive as a light on the dashboard or a car that will not start, and the light alone narrows the search a long way. The table below is the order we work through on a chat. A fault code read with a scan tool narrows it further, and any garage can read one in a few minutes. Send us the code with the chassis number and we can usually point to the part.

Electrical parts are also the easiest to buy twice. A new alternator will not cure a slipping belt, and a new sensor will not cure a chafed wire, so the third column of the table matters as much as the second.

An alternator works hardest in the conditions the UAE produces most: AC on full, cooling fans running, lights on and the engine idling in traffic. It sits in an engine bay that is already very hot, and heat is what wears out its diodes, its voltage regulator and its bearings. Fine dust adds wear to the bearings and the brushes.

Before replacing a whole alternator, check the parts around it. The belt, the tensioner and the idler pulley can all make the noise, or cause the charging fault, that gets blamed on the alternator. Our range carries Mitsubishi alternator pulleys and idler pulleys as parts in their own right, so a worn pulley does not have to mean a new unit. Some alternators use a pulley with a one-way clutch inside it to smooth the load on the belt; when that clutch fails, the belt can flap or chatter and the charge can drop at idle.

When the alternator itself has gone, the replacement has to match on more than the model name. Alternators differ in output, measured in amps, in the number of grooves on the pulley, in the plug on the back and in the mounting lugs. The complete units in our range include alternators listed for the L200 and Pajero Sport, and the chassis number and engine decide which one fits.

A starter motor draws more current than anything else on the car, for a few seconds at a time, so it is the first thing to show up a weak battery, a corroded terminal or a poor earth strap. A single click with no crank, a slow labouring crank and complete silence are three different faults, and only some of them are the starter.

Check the cheap things in order: the battery's state of charge, the clamps on its posts, the earth strap from the engine to the body, and the starter relay. On many cars a failed starter relay produces exactly the silence that gets blamed on the starter, and genuine Mitsubishi relays are part of this range. Batteries themselves are not among the lines on this page.

If the starter is at fault, we match it to the engine. Starters differ in power and in the number of teeth on the drive gear, and a petrol and a diesel version of the same Mitsubishi model take different units. The starters in our range include units listed for the L200 and Pajero Sport and for the Galant.

Where a Mitsubishi engine has a coil on each spark plug, a rubber boot, often called the coil tip, reaches down the plug well to the plug. That boot lives beside a hot cylinder head, and over the years it hardens and cracks. A cracked boot lets the spark track to the metal of the plug well instead of firing the plug, and that cylinder misfires.

Our range carries those tips as separate parts for the Lancer, the Outlander and the ASX, and for petrol versions of the L200 and Pajero Sport. If a garage finds the coil tests fine but the boot is split or carbon-tracked, the tip alone fixes it. If the coil itself is weak, we quote the coil, and the plugs are worth checking at the same time, because a worn plug makes a coil work harder.

A useful test needs nothing beyond the fault code, which names the misfiring cylinder. Swap that cylinder's coil with its neighbour's. If the misfire follows the coil, the coil is the fault. If it stays on the same cylinder, look at the plug, the boot or the injector instead.

Each wheel with an ABS sensor reports its speed to the ABS unit, which compares all four. When one sensor stops reporting, the ABS and traction lights come on and those systems switch themselves off, though ordinary braking still works. The fault code tells you which wheel. Front left and front right sensors are different parts with different numbers, so the side matters. The ABS sensors in this range are aftermarket; if you want the genuine Mitsubishi sensor, ask and we price it.

The sensor is often not the real fault. Its cable runs past the suspension and can be chafed or pulled, sand and grime pack around the sensor tip, and on many cars the sensor reads a magnetic ring on the wheel bearing that can be damaged when a bearing is changed. A garage should check the wiring and the reading ring before fitting a new sensor.

Beyond ABS, the range holds genuine Mitsubishi engine and chassis sensors, headlamp levelling height sensors and the small links that join them to the suspension, and smaller numbers of oxygen sensors, crank and cam sensors, throttle bodies, fuel pumps and injectors. For any of those, send the number off the old part or the fault code with the chassis number; the table at the top shows what is on the shelf on its date.

The comparison table below sets genuine and aftermarket typical prices side by side for the electrical part types where we hold enough of both. Coil tips, seals and fittings, and alternator pulleys and other alternator parts, are counted in rows of their own, so the coil and alternator rows compare complete units.

For sensors, the match matters more than the badge, because a sensor has to send exactly the signal the engine computer expects. We match by the original part number, and the part numbers table above shows which original numbers each aftermarket line replaces. For pulleys, coil tips and ABS sensors, an aftermarket part that lists your Mitsubishi number is a common saving. Ask for both prices on one chat whenever we hold both.

Send the chassis number from your mulkiya, with the engine size and whether it is petrol or diesel. GCC-spec and imported Mitsubishis of the same model can use different electrical parts, and the chassis number shows which you have. We supply and deliver; an auto electrician or your own garage fits the part, and the shops listed below are a starting point.